I don't think it's innapropriate to share setups, but most of us keeps them secret. The setup you're unsing is the final touch to your drifting skills and I don't. This is an advanced setup guide. A lower value in the LFS setup. A simple way to prevent one wheel getting all of the torque is to install some springs and a.

• Drift Car Setup

Basic Drift Chassis Setup Part 1 By Mike Kojima If you have been following my series, on MotoIQ you have been getting a step by step education on the theory of suspension. Due to overwhelming demand, I have decided to take a step back from the theory side of things and give some simple and practical advice on how to set up a drift car due to the literally hundreds of requests I have gotten on this. 2011 Formula D Champion, Dai Yoshihara's car has some really exotic parts in the suspension but much of it is off the shelf stuff that anyone can buy. As most of you probably know, my normal drifting job is setting up the chassis to make Dai Yoshihara’s Discount Tire/ Falken Tire S13 do its thing on the Formula D circuit.

For the pros there are a lot of tricks and engineering going into making those cars go sideways, changing directions and maneuvering with lightning fast precision with the performance envelope of a road racer and drag racer combined. Matt Powers is an example of what you can do with the basics done right. All of Matt's suspension is off the shelf stuff that anyone could buy for a modest price. Matt's driving skill and Costa Gialamas's set up skill was good enough to take Matt's low buck program all the way to a 6th place in Formula D ranking. Being what is perhaps the fastest growing motorsport, Drifting is getting ever popular on the grassroots level.

Although your local drift day can sometimes attract hundreds of enthusiastic beginning drifters the scene is lacking for a large part even a basic knowledge of how to properly set up a car for drifting. Walker Wilkerson was runner up for 2011 Formula D Rookie of the Year Honors and was voted Fan Favorite. Walker is one of the only competitive 4 cylinders engines in pro drifting running an SR20DET. Walker reads MotoIQ and uses our basic set up!

Although we do some extreme high dollar secret tricks on the pro cars, the grassroots drifter can get 80% of the way there by getting the basics right. Proper basic setup will make the car easier to handle in drift and speed your learning curve.

Unlike most grassroots motorsports, many people in the drift scene are seemingly oblivious on how to make their cars work better, being more conservative with things like stance, ride height and flushness as the street lifestyle aspect of drift culture is very strong. Matt Fields is also a MotoIQ reader and one of the top privateers in pro drifting. His car uses all basic off the shelf stuff. At the pro level, we really don’t care how the car looks, just how it works and if you care to advance yourself in the art of drifting as a driver, you might want to think in the same way as well. For those of you that want to get better through making your car easier to drive, we decided to write down some basic low cost guidelines on what it takes to set up your car for drifting. Formula D Rookie of the Year Odi Bakchis owns Feal Suspension and is a suspension expert himself. He uses a very basic setup that is well dialed in.

Odi can do stuff to make your low dollar coil overs work a lot better. Give him a call. The point of all of this is that the basics done well can see you all the way into pro competition. I still laugh when I see that Hellaflush pic of you lookin' hard Mike. I can vouch for the awesomeness that is Koni/Ground Control/Eibach coilovers.

Drift Car Setup

Not that large, well known companies collaborating together needs my vouch, but they are amazing kit none the less. @Supercharged111: who are you talking about exactly? Steering knuckles that correct steering geometry are getting increasingly popular in pro drifting. Off the top of my head, I can think of four companies that have produced knuckles in the past and at least another two companies that are developing knuckles that correct roll center as well.

The days of outer tie-rod spacers and extended ball joints are slowly becoming numbered. @OMG: Nobody that I'm aware of makes an aftermarket knuckle for an AE92. I think my best bet is going to be getting friendly with the guys who made the spacers.

I don't recall which cars had them because I don't have the pics that I thought I'd taken, maybe they're on my other camera back in the states. They attached to the bottom of the factory knuckle but optimized the lower control arm's geometry, the tie rod geometry, gave quicker steering response, and left the option of altering ackerman on the table which would be more than enough rope for me to hang myself. I thought they were a pretty slick idea, Atlanta was my first Formula D event and checking out the cars gave me quite a few ideas for my own car auto-x/HPDE-mobile. Hey Mike, I had a question. What's happening when sliding in a corner and the front checks up and the car straightens. This is bad because one, the car stops sliding, but more importantly it's a safety issue on banked turns with a wall.

It was never a problem in my 240, I've noticed it on my corolla. I understand it could partly be due to the short wheelbase/low yaw inertia making it snappy. But what causes it to snap back in the first place? The rear end suddenly regaining grip, or is it front end related?

Gotta be one or the other. Front: -3. camber, a little toe out, guessing.5 castor.

Rear: it's a corolla! Chubbs, There are many reasons you don't want to lower your car more then 2'. Bump steer, Roll centers, bump stops, wheel contacting the body, ect. Shorter bodied coilovers will allow for more travel before the shock contacts the bumpstop.

What you ideally want to do is find the stock ride height whether its another car or putting the stock suspension back in your car. With shortened shocks, do not go 2' lower then that. Abunai, Jack your car up, put a zip tie around the shock shaft and bottom it out on the top of the shock.

Lower the car and let it settle at ride height with weight(driver). Jack the car back up, measure the distance the zip tie has raised up off of the top of the shock. This will tell you how much droop travel you have at the shock.

Droop at the wheel will be different, just apply your motion ratio to find wheel droop. Bump is a bit more difficult. Pm me and I will explain.

Drifting 101 There have allways been a lot of questions about how to set up your driftcar, I thought it was a good idea to make a thread about this, gathering it all in one place. Differentials To get good control of the vehicle when drifting, it is important to have a locked reardiff and a locked or adjustable frontdiff. There are different types of differentials. Oil Filled An oil filled differential is an open diff that you can change the level of lock with the viscosity of the oil you fill them with. Usually, 300k in the rear and 150k in the front should do the trick. Some fill these with glue to make them 100% locked, this will work, but its better to get a real locked diff if available.

Locked Most drift chassis come with locked diffs, this is the easiest way to be sure that your diff is 100% locked. Its not recommended to use a 100% locked diff in the front though, this will make the inside wheel rotate with the same rpm as the outside wheel, making the car somewhat harder to controll while turning. A 50-70% locked diff in the front is recommended.

Balldiff This is adjusted by screwing in or out the screw in the center of the diff, tightening the screw locks it more and vice versa. Some people have problems with these kind of diffs because the screw unscrews itself, making the diff less locked while drifting. Oneway A one-way diff locks in one direction and are completely open in the other.

This is mainly used in the front and will make only the rear wheels lock under braking giving you and e-brake effect. This is recommended for small technical tracks where the handbrake can be convenient, but its not practical in large tracks with high top speed where you need braking on all 4 wheels to control the speed into corners. Suspension It is important to adjust the height and stiffness of the car to make it as neutral as possible, neutral means a vehicle that is neither understeered or oversteered. This is achieved by adjusting the height of the vehicle and thus move the weight around the center point. The only way to get this right is by trial and error, the goal is balance and a lot of grip.

Some people use 4 kitchen scales to check that the weight of the car is evenly distributed over the 4 wheels. If you have problems with understeering (the car slides straight ahead instead of turning) you should try to move some of the weight to the back of the car, you achieve this by raising the front or lowering the rear, or a combination of both. If your car is a bit too tailhappy and the car is hard to control during drifting and you spin out easily, you should try to move the weight to the front of the car, you achieve this (yes you guessed it) by lowering the car in the front or raising it in the rear, or a combination of both.

Coilovers The easiest way to adjust the height of your car is with coilovers, if your chassie isnt fitted with this you should consider getting a set. Springs The stiffness of the springs will change the grip of the car. Stiff springs will make the car easier to drift, but you will loose some grip. Softer springs will give you more grip, but you also will experience that the car feels more twitchy. You just have to find the setting that works for you, some coilover kits come with multiple springs with different stiffness, making et easier to test what you think is best. Wheel angles 3.1.

Camber Adjusting camber on the car will change your grip on the wheels, a lot of camber would mean less of the tires surface in contact with the ground. Some people prefer a neutral setting, and some prefer running a lot of camber, there is no final answer to this, you just have to try and find out whats works for you. As a startup setting 5 degree camber in the rear and 3 degree in the front is recommended. You adjust the camber of your rc chassi by making the camberlink longer or shorter, its the top link in this picture.

If your car doesnt have adjustable camberlinks you should consider getting a set. Toein/toeout Adjusting the toein/toeout will change how twitchy the car feels while drifting. Descargar manual mutants and masterminds.

Running a toein setting will make the wheels work together towards the center of the car, making it more stable. A common setting is 3 degrees toein.

Not all chassis have the option to adjust the toein in the rear. The easiest way to adjust this in the front is to make the steering links shorter or longer. (the links that connects the wheels to the steering servo) 3.3. Ackermann Ackermann (named after the german that patented the way of preventing it) is when the front wheels isnt inline at full steering lock, this usually happes when the steering geometry is changed. The effect of this is less grip on the inner wheel at full lock.

You can read more about this 4. Countersteer/CS This is covered by Boza in this thread 5. Tires The most commonly used drifttire is the HPI T-drift, this has a just the right grip for your everyday drifting needs. If you enter a drifting competition this is the tire you are asked to run. There is alot of copies of the T-drift available on ebay, and most of them are similar in grip and durability. Take a look at Dribbles thread about 6.

Turningradius Some people prefer to have as much turning radius as possible, other prefers to run very little. This is totally up to you. I usually go for the first one, I think that a lot of radius looks more realistic and I like the ability to drift in very high angles without spinning out. Keep in mind that if you want alot of steering angle you should get driveshafts that are made for this, the stock ones seldom 'like' the big angles and will make the wheel hop around, and you will wear out the joint of the driveshaft very quickly. I use Overdose driveshafts on my cars with great result. Motor and ESC I usually run a brushless 10.5T setup in my cars, this is mainly because its mandatory to run a 10.5T brushless if you want to enter a drifting competition on a larger scale. The World, European and Norwegian championships demands this.

If you are just drifting for fun this is not so important, but I find that 10.5T motors is just right for drifting, they have good power but doesnt drain the batteries too fast. 7.1 Sensored/unsensored I have gotten the best effect with a sensored motor, this will give more control over the power then a unsensored one, but in most cases you might not feel the difference, it depends on the motor and ESC.

7.2 Boost Some people also use a ESC that gives you the ability to run boost, this means that you can setup the esc to give the motor a lot more rpms at max throttle. This will give you the ability to recover from a drift if needed without having to run full throttle all the time. Boost does wear out a motor much faster though. Servos I get alot of questions about which servo is the best for drifting. There isnt a good answer for this but the one thing I think is important is to get a servo thats fast and can pull some weight, this ensures that the car turns quickly also if the surface gives some resistance. If you want a servo that can take a beating its a good idea to get one with titaniums gears. That should be it, let me know if I have forgotten something and I will add it to the list.

Click to expand.The easiest way to find out is to put some drift tires on it and test it. Im not familiar with that car, but any car thats been setup for carpet racing are allready well balanced and should work fine for drifting. The main thing I would look into are the diffs, are they open, closed or somewhere in between? Please post some pictures of the car when it sits on its wheels, one picture form the front and one from the rear and one directly from the side if possible and I can see if there something that could be changed. Your use of this Website is subject to & - © 2008-2017 Medic Media Productions Inc.

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